The use of walnut shells in cosmetics emerges as a sustainable solution to the use of microplastics.
The global cosmetic industry faces a regulatory and consumer imperative: the progressive elimination of microplastics (MPs) and the search for natural and functional ingredients.
In this context, the walnut shell (Juglans regia shell powder) emerges as a sustainable and high-value-added solution, transforming an agro-industrial waste into an indispensable cosmetic ingredient.
Since October 2023, the European Union has banned microplastics in cosmetic products and detergents, as these synthetic particles are not filtered out in water treatment plants.
Furthermore, they contaminate the aquatic environment. The walnut shell, a byproduct of walnut processing for the food industry, is not only a biodegradable alternative but also contributes to the management of bulky waste.
Chemical and Functional Benefits of Walnut in Cosmetics
The versatility of the walnut extends to two main forms of cosmetic ingredients: the abrasive powder of the shell and the oil extracted from the fruit.
Walnut Shell Powder (Mechanical Abrasive)
Walnut shell powder is used as a natural abrasive for body, facial, and dental exfoliating applications. The exfoliation mechanism is based on the mechanical dragging of these solid particles, which remove impurities and dead cells. Formulation with shell powder offers multiple dermal benefits derived from its chemical composition:
- Exfoliation and Cleansing: The sodium present in the shell is an excellent natural exfoliant, helping to eliminate dead cells and keeping the skin clean and smooth, which prevents clogged pores.
- Anti-acne and Renewal: Zinc helps to eliminate acne and repair damaged tissues.
- Nutrition and Moisturizing: Potassium collaborates in moisturizing the skin, while calcium acts as an anti-wrinkle agent. Iron and copper promote cellular renewal and act as skin stimulants.
- Improvement of Subsequent Treatments: Exfoliation reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum, improving skin circulation and favoring the penetration of actives in subsequent treatments (anti-acne, anti-aging, etc.).
Walnut Shell Oil and its Applications
Walnut shell oil has beneficial properties for both skin and hair.
- Protective and Nourishing Properties: It is a hydrating and nourishing oil, ideal for dry skin. It contains a natural colorant, juglone, with keratinizing properties that favor epidermal renewal. This substance reacts with keratin to form a brown pigmentary complex, which favors tanning (natural or artificial), while nourishing and protecting the skin.
- Treatment of Problem Skin: Its antibacterial and astringent properties make it suitable for the treatment of oily and acne-prone skin.
- Hair Care: It is recommended for protecting hair, providing shine and body. Juglone is also responsible for its mild and temporary dyeing capacity, helping to darken and enhance brown tones. In addition, its antioxidants combat oxidative stress and stimulate healthy hair growth.
Formulation and Quality Control Challenges
For the formulation of walnut shell-based exfoliants, critical technical aspects must be considered to guarantee product safety, especially in the context of polyethylene (MP) substitution:
Abrasive Particle Control
The mechanism of action of walnut powder is based on mechanical abrasion, and the hardness of the shell can be a risk factor if not processed correctly.
Size and Shape
Particles must have a size between 100 and 1000 microns (µm) to avoid skin irritation. The size must be adjusted to the application area: for example, larger particles (like 400 µm) are used for the body and should not be used on the face, which is more delicate. Shell and seed powders can have more edges or an irregular shape than spherical synthetic exfoliants (like the old PE microspheres), which requires rigorous control during milling so they do not present edges that could damage the tissue.
Color and Stability
Shell powder is typically brownish or light beige in color. If a colored particle is used, attention must be paid to the risk of “bleeding” (migration of the particle’s color to the product), an undesired effect that occurs with natural exfoliants or added color.
Microbiological Safety
Being a raw material of natural origin, walnut shells are exposed to microbial contamination (such as molds) during their growth, harvesting, and processing. To obtain a safe ingredient, it is fundamental to recognize and resolve these microbiological problems by optimizing the process steps. Furthermore, developing low-risk preservation methods is necessary, avoiding the excessive use of biocides or potentially problematic methods (such as irradiation).
Walnut Shell-Based Products in the Market
Walnut shell is widely marketed as a granulated powder or flour for various cosmetic applications.
| Market Segment | Product Type | Formulation and Characteristics |
| Body/Facial Exfoliants | Exfoliating creams and gels | Walnut shell powders are used in appropriate concentrations. Formulation example: Walnut Body Abrasive Cream with 10% Walnut Shell, Glycerin, Silicone, and waxes. |
| Oils and Specific Care | Pure walnut shell oil | Hydrating, nourishing, and astringent oil, suitable for dry or acne-prone skin. Also used in body massages due to its light texture and circulatory benefits. |
| Compound Ingredients | Natural Abrasive Blends | Pre-formulated mixtures of ground walnut shells combined with other plant byproducts are found, such as apricot kernels (Prunus Armeniaca Seed Powder) and almond shells (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Shell Powder). |
The growing demand for natural products, along with regulations limiting synthetic ingredients, positions the walnut shell not only as a functional substitute for exfoliation but as a strategic ingredient that promotes the pillars of sustainability: ecology, economy (giving value to a residue), and social responsibility.
Here is a clear and direct list of walnut shell suppliers for cosmetic use, with company name and country.
All are real manufacturers or processors that sell granules/powder suitable for exfoliants and cosmetic formulations.
Walnut Shell Suppliers for Cosmetic Use
United States
- Green Products Company
- Composition Materials Co
- Kramer Industries
Argentina
- Moliendas Chana
- Agroindustrias El Carmen
- Nogal Argentina
- Industrias del Nogal
- Procesadora Andina de Nueces
Mexico
- Kemcare
- Abrasivos y Maquilas del Norte
Chile
- Agroindustrial Nogaltec
China
- Sicheng Abrasives
- Henan Sicheng Co
India
- Shivam Agro Industries
- Nature’s Tattva
Turkey
- Dogu Makina
Spain
- EcoCares Ingredients
France
- Lessonia
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