The search for actives that offer real, measurable efficacy is constant, and CLR Berlin, an intellectual authority with 100 years of experience in cosmetic ingredients, has relaunched two of its star actives, Phytosan™ NewAge and MPC™ (Milk Peptide Complex), adapting them to new market demands and backing them with cutting-edge cellular science.
In a recent interview, Francisco Fernández Palacio from CLR shared with Vanesa Micolucci the keys to these ingredients and their impact on longevity and cellular regeneration.
Phytosan™ NewAge: Activating the “Guardian of the Genome” (P53 Protein)
Phytosan™ NewAge is the evolution of its predecessor, Phytosan™ K, and represents a significant advance in the fight against skin aging. Its main innovation lies in its modern preservation system, now stabilized with Pentylene Glycol and p-Anisic Acid, eliminating phenoxyethanol to adapt to current market certifications and requirements.
The science behind the efficacy:
Francisco Fernández Palacio explains that Phytosan™ NewAge works directly on genomic instability, the fundamental cause of aging. Its mechanism of action focuses on boosting the production of the P53 protein, known in biotechnology as the “Guardian of the Genome.”
- DNA Detection and Repair: The P53 protein is crucial because it detects errors in the DNA replication process caused by oxidative stress or toxins. When damage occurs, P53 decides whether the cell can be repaired or if it must enter apoptosis (cellular self-destruction) to prevent mutations and major issues.
- Aging Reduction: By boosting P53, Phytosan™ NewAge facilitates DNA repair, reducing the problems that cause skin aging.
- Antitumor Action: Additionally, it works with other proteins like P14 ARF, related to tumor prevention, highlighting its advanced cellular focus.
- Visible Results: In vivo studies support its efficacy, showing visible results in the significant reduction of wrinkles, increased firmness, and elasticity within 42 days.
For the formulator:
Phytosan™ NewAge is water-soluble and derived from organic soy seed (non-GMO). The recommended dose for cosmetic formulations is 2.0% to 5.0%. It is ideal for day and night creams, and even sunscreens, as it helps reduce damage caused by UV radiation.
Why premium brands ignore the vegan trend.
MPC™ (Milk Peptide Complex): The Architect of the Extracellular Matrix
While Phytosan™ NewAge focuses on the genetic “code,” MPC™ (Milk Peptide Complex) concentrates on cellular “architecture,” rebuilding the skin’s structure. This active, derived from milk proteins, is a CLR classic that remains indispensable for premium brands despite the growing vegan trend.
The science behind the efficacy:
Francisco emphasizes that MPC™ is a potent load of milk proteins that works with growth factors.
- Stimulation of the Extracellular Matrix (ECM): MPC™ directly stimulates the production of key components of the dermal matrix:
- Hyaluronic Acid: Increases by +1900%, providing 90% of the volume to the dermis.
- Fibronectin: Increases by +220%, essential for cellular interaction and migration.
- Type I Collagen: Increases by +140%, restoring the skin’s mechanical strength and structural firmness.
- Topical Dermal Filler Effect: The final result is a deep reorganization of the dermis, densifying the skin and restoring firmness, which drastically reduces the depth of wrinkles.
- Fast Results: In vivo studies demonstrate visible results in just 14 days, with firmer skin and wrinkle reduction.
The Vegan vs. Clinical Efficacy debate:
Francisco addresses the market paradox: while the vegan trend grows, the most prestigious brands continue to formulate with milk proteins.
The secret of milk (that the vegan market ignores).
The reason is simple: the clinical efficacy of milk growth factors for cellular architecture is unrivaled. MPC™ is not vegan, but its ability to rebuild the skin maintains it as an undisputed active, especially for consumers who associate food-based ingredients with benefits for the body.
For the formulator:
MPC™ is a powder active with excellent solubility. The exact and clinically proven dose is 0.5%. It is ideal for firming night serums and specific applications seeking to improve smoothness and reduce imperfections.
Support and Sustainability: The Commitment of CLR
CLR offers more than just high-efficacy actives; it provides a commitment to sustainability and formulator support.
- Sustainability: CLR has achieved EcoVadis Gold status, using solar energy to cover approximately 50% of its energy needs at its Berlin facilities. Additionally, its production processes, such as that for Phytosan™ (derived from sustainable soy plantations in Austria) and AnnonaSense CLR™ (from a cherimoya upcycling process), demonstrate their dedication to reducing the carbon footprint.
- Technical Support: CLR offers free support to formulators, with a laboratory always open for inquiries and a website featuring detailed formulation examples to facilitate the integration of their actives.
The Future of Cosmetics with CLR
CLR, celebrating 100 years of experience in 2026, continues to be a reference in innovation. Francisco Fernández Palacio invites the industry to visit their booth (3G30) at the upcoming In-Cosmetics Global in Paris, where, in addition to these relaunches, they will present a spectacular new active that responds to an emerging market trend.
The combination of the deep science of Phytosan™ NewAge and the cellular architecture of MPC™ offers formulators powerful tools to create products that don’t just promise longevity and regeneration but deliver them with visible results and unshakable scientific backing.
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