The dermocosmetic industry is migrating towards molecular strategies that address the biological root of chronic skin pathologies. Interleukins (IL), particularly IL Beta, are critical inflammatory mediators in the pathogenesis of conditions such as acne, psoriasis, and photoaging.
Interleukins as Key Targets in Inflammatory Skin Pathologies
Interleukins are critical inflammatory mediators in various skin conditions, making them important targets for skin health technologies:
- Acne: IL alpha is considered the first inflammatory signal for endothelial cells in acne lesions. The presence of P. acnes and its extracellular products stimulates the binding to IL receptors of keratinocytes and macrophages, inducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. In fact, IL B causes hypercornification of the infundibulum, a key process in comedo formation.
- Psoriasis and Photoaging: ILs are strongly implicated in the development of psoriasis. In the pathogenesis of psoriasis, stressed keratinocytes activate plasmacytoid dendritic cells, which release IL, in turn activating other dendritic cells that release cytokines initiating inflammatory processes in the skin.
- Activation by UVB: Exposure to radiation induces an inflammatory response causing the activation of the inflammasome in keratinocytes. This leads to the secretion of IL B. Its production in keratinocytes is, ultimately, dependent on the inflammasome.
In Vitro Research Technologies
Skin health research in relation to interleukins is based on advanced cellular models and specific quantification techniques:
- Cell Lines (Technological Models):
- HaCaT Keratinocytes: The human keratinocyte cell line is widely used as a model. These keratinocytes are employed to study radiation-induced damage, oxidative stress, and the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. They are also used to evaluate the modulation of inflammasome activation, which is directly related to the inhibition of IL B production.
- THP-1 Macrophages: The THP-1 monocyte cell line, differentiated into macrophages, is used to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activity of compounds by measuring the reduction in response to stimuli such as lipopolysaccharide.
- Quantification Techniques: Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay is the standard technique employed to quantify levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines in cell culture supernatants and in skin tissue homogenates.
Interleukin Beta
Interleukin-1 beta (IL-1b) is a key pro-inflammatory cytokine involved in the pathogenesis of various skin conditions, including acne and aging. In acne, the activation of the transcription factor involved in the inflammatory response leads to the upregulation of IL-1b. Furthermore, it has been shown to produce hypercornification of the infundibulum, a key process in comedo formation.
Technological Delivery Systems and Compounds that Regulate IL B
Technology is applied in the development of formulations that optimize the delivery of actives that modulate interleukins:
- Nanoliposomes and Gels (Nano-Delivery Tech): Nanoliposomes have been studied for the topical application of compounds such as Rosmarinic Acid in a murine model of imiquimod-induced psoriasis. The aqueous gel presentation significantly reduced levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
- Optimized Formulations (Creams): Formulation technology in creams or emulsions has proven superior to simple solvents (like acetone) for increasing permeability and, consequently, the efficacy of compounds that regulate ILs in in vivo models. Fucoxanthin, a carotenoid, delivered in cream, reduced inflammation in models of hyperplasia and erythema.
- Other Active Compounds (Cosmeceuticals):
- Glycolipids from the microalga Isochrysis galbana administered topically reduced the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines in epidermal tissue in murine models of hyperplasia.
- Physalis Angulata Extract has been studied in vitro for its anti-inflammatory profile similar to hydrocortisone. It is a stimulating mediator of other cytokines, and the extract’s ability to modulate inflammatory mediators suggests a cascading regulation of these ILs.
Physical Technologies (Laser and Light Therapy)
Laser technology and light therapy are mentioned as technological treatments for inflammatory skin conditions, used to treat mild or moderate inflammatory forms of acne and scarring.
The 1450 nm diode laser decreases inflammatory lesions by reducing sebaceous secretion. Photodynamic therapies combine pulsed light or laser with photosensitizing agents.
Cosmetic and Natural Actives Regulating Interleukin Beta
Physalis Angulata Extract (Physavie® 250)
Physavie® 250 is a plant extract obtained by supercritical CO2. This ingredient has demonstrated a significant reduction in inflammatory mediators. Although the in vitro study was performed on stressed keratinocytes and various cytokines were evaluated, the response profile of Physavie® 250 was very similar to that of hydrocortisone (a standard corticosteroid) by significantly reducing inflammatory mediators.
In keratinocyte culture, the evaluation of an interleukin related to IL-1b, which increases the production of other cytokines and stimulates the eicosanoid mediator pathway, was observed.
The extract also demonstrated a reduction in the activity of the main transcription factor involved in the inflammatory process and in the progression of tissue damage, which is directly related to the upregulation of IL-B in inflammation.
Curcumin and Curcuminoids
Curcumin is a natural colorant from turmeric, known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Research has shown that curcumin mediates anti-inflammatory effects through the regulation of inflammatory transcription factors (such as nuclear factor IL B) and cytokines (interleukins 1 and 6).
In the context of osteoarthritis (OA), it has been shown that curcumin protects human chondrocytes from the catabolic actions of IL-1b. Curcumin and its derivatives have the advantage of possessing low toxicity and are studied for their anti-inflammatory properties in chronic diseases.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide, a component widely used in cosmetic dermatology, has anti-inflammatory effects, being useful for acne and rosacea. It acts as an effective inhibitor. Niacinamide can inhibit nitric oxide production. In keratinocytes in the presence of niacinamide, a significant negative regulation was observed in the expression of many inflammation-related cytokines.
Lipoic Acid
Lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant and modulator of the inflammatory reaction. This agent can act as an anti-inflammatory by reducing the production of the transcription factor that indirectly affects the gene expression of inflammatory cytokines.
Red Clover (Trifolium pratense)
Red clover contains isoflavones such as biochanin A, which has been described to suppress follicular inflammation by blocking the action of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
Cationic Antimicrobial Peptides (AMPs)
AMPs (such as defensins and cathelicidins) are small molecules that, in addition to their antimicrobial activity, possess anti-inflammatory action. Their anti-inflammatory action includes the ability to inhibit the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines by host cells.
Ectopeptidase Inhibitors
These inhibitors are being studied as targets for acne treatment, as they affect proliferation, differentiation, and cytokine production in sebocytes and keratinocytes. Acting in combination, they produce the “upregulation of the IL-1b receptor antagonist in sebocyte and keratinocyte cell lines.”
Ingredients in Related Therapies Regulating IL-B
Although mentioned in more medical or procedural contexts (such as osteoarthritis), their mechanism of action on IL is relevant:
- Hyaluronic Acid: Can inhibit interleukins. It acts on symptomatic effects (pain and inflammation) and disease modifiers.
- Platelet-Rich Plasma: Modulates inflammation by inhibiting IL. It is capable of attenuating pro-inflammatory cytokines.
- Ozone: Modulates inflammation and pain. It has been shown to decrease inflammatory cytokines.
Regulation of interleukin pathways provides multifaceted benefits, with specific applications in the formulation of high-efficacy cosmeceuticals.
How do interleukins influence the development of chronic skin pathologies and aging?
The influence of interleukins extends to the genetic and molecular level. The activation of transcription factors involved in inflammation and tissue damage progression is directly related to the upregulation of IL-1b. Therefore, the industry seeks actives (such as niacinamide, Physalis Angulata extract, or curcumin) that inhibit these factors or cytokine production to stop the damage.
Imagine the skin is a construction site and interleukins are the foremen in charge of giving orders in an emergency.
- In a normal situation, they give a quick order to fix a flaw.
- In acne, the foreman (IL-1b) gets confused and orders the bricklayers to put too many bricks at the entrance (hypercornification), blocking the exit and leaving the inhabitants trapped (comedo formation).
- In sun aging, radiation acts like a constant false alarm that makes the foremen (activated by the inflammasome) keep the workers in a state of alert and continuous stress, wearing down the building instead of repairing it.
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