The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for anti-aging actives that offer results comparable to traditional retinoids but without their associated side effects, such as irritation or photosensitivity. LipoTrue presents Reneseed™ (known as “The Seed of Youth”), an innovative biotechnological ingredient that offers activity similar to retinol and retinoic acid, suitable for both day and night formulations.
Below, we provide an in-depth analysis of this active for formulators and developers in the B2B industry.
Production Technology: Plant Biofactories
The development of Reneseed™ is based on a cutting-edge and highly sustainable production method: Plant Biofactory technology using wild plants through vertical farming.
LipoTrue utilizes N. benthamiana, an Australian plant historically used as a model system, for the transient expression of high-purity proteins in a non-GM (non-genetically modified) environment.
The significant industrial advantage of this method compared to classic recombinant production using Gram-negative bacteria is the absence of endotoxins.
This allows formulators to work with a vegan, completely safe, high-activity ingredient with a correct three-dimensional structure.
Mechanism of Action: Biomimetic TGFβ2 Signaling
The aging process, combined with external factors such as photoaging, stress, hormonal imbalances, or diet, significantly reduces the levels of Transforming Growth Factor Beta-2 (TGFβ2) in the skin. Balanced TGFβ2 signaling is essential for maintaining functional, healthy, and youthful-looking skin.
Reneseed™ intervenes directly in this process by acting as a biomimetic TGFβ2. By restoring this vital cellular signaling, the active triggers two key structural processes:
- Collagen Stimulation: It acts on the synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins, achieving an efficacy in Type I collagen production similar to that of retinol and retinoic acid.
- Epidermal Filling: It boosts the production of epidermal lipids, which drastically improves the integrity and protection of the skin barrier.
Efficacy Studies: Clinical Results in 28 Days
Reneseed™ boasts broad-spectrum anti-aging properties backed by 28-day clinical studies. The results demonstrate comprehensive efficacy across multiple fronts of skincare:
- Anti-Wrinkle Action: Reduces the number of wrinkles by 16%, decreasing their volume by up to 28% and their depth by up to 19%.
- Pore and Texture Minimizer: Thanks to the improvement in structural support, it reduces pore size by up to 44%.
- Radiance and Hydration: Increases skin radiance by up to 42% and provides 28% more hydration.
- Firmness and Neck Redefinition: Improves firmness by +11% and elasticity by +6%, being highly effective for defining the neck area.
► Increases epidermal thickness and neutral lipids
► Strengthens the skin barrier (something retinoids do not do)
► Stimulates collagen with the same potency as retinoids
Applications in Cosmetic Formulas
Thanks to its versatility, safety profile, and non-photosensitizing “retinol-like” nature, Reneseed™ opens a wide range of possibilities for the development of innovative cosmetic products:
- 24h Anti-Aging Treatments: Unlike traditional retinol, Reneseed™ is suitable for both night and day care. This allows for the creation of complete anti-aging routines without usage restrictions due to sun exposure.
- Pore-Minimizing Serums: Ideal for formulas aimed at refining skin texture and visibly reducing pore size through structural support.
- Firming Creams for Neck and Décolleté: Its ability to increase collagen and lipids makes it a perfect candidate for treatments focused on restoring firmness and defining the neck contour.
- Clean and Vegan Cosmetics: Produced through non-GM plant biofactories and without the risk of bacterial endotoxins, it fits perfectly into clean, vegan, and sustainable dermo-cosmetic lines.
Reneseed™ by LipoTrue represents an advanced technological solution for brands seeking to offer the reconstructive and rejuvenating power of retinol, combined with maximum skin tolerability and environmental respect.
Superior Safety: No Phototoxicity!
Unlike retinoids, this plant-based active showed no phototoxic effects, making it suitable for daytime use and for sensitive skin.
What is Biomimetic TGFβ2 Signaling?
TGF‑2 (or TGF‑β2) is a cell signaling protein belonging to the Transforming Growth Factor Beta family. It is a cytokine that regulates essential processes such as cell growth, differentiation, tissue repair, inflammation, and embryonic development.
What are its most important biological functions?
TGF‑β2 (and the TGF‑β family in general) has four key biological functions in the skin that are directly relevant to the cosmetic industry. These functions are documented in studies on skin aging, fibroblast regulation, the extracellular matrix, and cell signaling.
Below is a complete, structured explanation focused on how it is used and why it matters in cosmetics:
1. Regulation of Collagen and the Extracellular Matrix (ECM)
TGF‑β is one of the most potent regulators of the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and other components of the extracellular matrix.
This makes it a central target for:
- Anti-aging products
- Firming treatments
- Actives seeking to improve dermal density
- Regenerative cosmetics
In aging skin, fibroblasts show changes in TGF‑β expression, which directly impacts the decline of collagen production.
2. Tissue Repair and Healing
TGF‑β participates in:
- Wound closure
- Tissue remodeling
- Dermal regeneration
Because of this, it is used in:
- Post-procedure care (laser, peels, microneedling)
- Medical cosmetics
- Products designed to accelerate skin barrier recovery
Its role in healing is so significant that it is studied even in 3D human skin models to understand how it influences cell differentiation and proliferation.
3. Modulation of Inflammation and Immune Response
TGF‑β regulates skin inflammation and immunological balance.
This is key for:
- Sensitive skin
- Rosacea
- Low-grade chronic inflammation (inflammaging)
- Soothing or anti-redness cosmetics
The industry uses it to formulate products that reduce irritation and improve skin tolerance.
4. Control of Cell Proliferation and Differentiation
TGF‑β regulates:
- Keratinocyte proliferation
- Epidermal differentiation
- Apoptosis (programmed cell death)
- Angiogenesis (formation of new blood vessels)
This directly impacts:
- Skin texture
- Epidermal thickness
- Radiance
- Uniformity
Studies show that TGF‑β signaling changes with age, affecting the number of fibroblasts and dermal microvasculature.
Why does the cosmetic industry use it?
Laboratories incorporate it into anti-aging serums, pro-collagen formulas, regenerative treatments, and post-procedure cosmetics because it:
- Increases collagen production
- Improves firmness
- Reduces wrinkles
- Accelerates repair
- Modulates inflammation
An important note: Growth factors like TGF‑β can be unstable and do not always penetrate the skin easily. Therefore, their efficacy depends heavily on the delivery system and formulation technology (such as the biomimetic approach used in Reneseed™).