Don’t let a single ingredient jeopardize your overall strategy. Discover the hidden truth behind CI 75470 (Carmine), the growing regulatory and ethical risks it poses, and why the future of your next formulation could depend on what you read here.
CI 75470 (Carmine): The Regulatory Time Bomb in your INCI.
In every cosmetic formulator’s arsenal, there is a red pigment almost unsurpassed for its intensity, stability, and beauty: CI 75470, known in the food world as E120 or Carmine.
It is the secret behind the most iconic lipsticks from brands like L’Oréal Paris, MAC Cosmetics, and Maybelline, responsible for vibrant blushes and the gold standard for reddish tones.
Carminic acid has traditionally been used as a food, cosmetic, and textile colorant. However, its production declined in the late 19th century with the emergence of cheaper and easier-to-produce synthetic dyes. Recently, there has been a resurgence of interest in natural products due to health concerns associated with certain synthetic dyes.
This has led to an increase in demand for carminic acid. Current industrial production of carminic acid is estimated at 800 tons per year, mainly in Peru, the Canary Islands, Chile, and Mexico.
But this star ingredient hides an origin that is evolving from a technical curiosity to a considerable strategic risk. Its secret lies not in its chemical formula, but in its origin: a tiny insect.
From insect to high-performance pigment
What many brands prefer not to emphasize is that CI 75470 is neither synthetic nor plant-based. Its origin is purely animal. The almost artisanal process reveals the complexity and dependence on a very specific supply chain.
- Cultivation and Harvesting: The cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus), a parasitic insect, is meticulously cultivated on cacti, primarily in regions of Peru and Mexico. Once mature, they are harvested manually.
- Drying and Grinding: The insects are dried in the sun or in ovens to preserve the pigment within. They are then ground into a fine powder.
- Extraction and Precipitation: Through immersion in acid solutions and the addition of metallic agents such as alum, the precious carminic acid is extracted, purified, and precipitated.
- Final Product: After final drying and grinding, the CI 75470 pigment is obtained, ready to bring the most demanding formulations to life.
This origin, although 100% natural, is precisely the source of a growing conflict that threatens to redefine the map of global cosmetics.
Natural red 4 in the cosmetics industry
One of the most prominent uses of carmine is in cosmetics. Brands such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder have long used this natural colorant for lipsticks, blushes, and eyeshadows. Its continued use is due to its vibrant color, stability, and natural origin. Despite the trend toward vegan products, many companies continue to use carmine for its unmatched red pigmentation.
In the cosmetics industry, ingredient regulations are strict. Products must pass safety testing, and carmine has consistently proven to be nontoxic, safe for skin, and hypoallergenic for most users. The FDA exempts carmine from certification as a colorant, approving its use in cosmetics and food products under specific guidelines.
The Formulator’s Dilemma: Unmatched Performance vs. Regulation and Ethics
CI 75470 is at a crossroads. On the one hand, its performance is undeniable. On the other, its use is becoming a minefield for brands with global aspirations and a connection to the values of the modern consumer.
While the European Union (under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009), the United States (FDA), and most Latin American and Asian countries permit its use with proper labeling (INCI: CI 75470 or Carmine), a new map of restrictions is emerging, creating barriers to entry in key markets. In Saudi Arabia, it is banned in halal products; in Indonesia and the United Arab Emirates, it requires strict halal certification, invalidated by carmine’s animal origin.
In Switzerland, its use is restricted in some products, indicating a trend toward stricter regulations on animal colorants in Europe. Some brands in Europe and the US are opting out of the pigment. Pressure from the vegan movement is forcing brands to reformulate, even where it’s legal.
The Risk of Certifications
The use of CI 75470 automatically invalidates any Vegan, Halal, or Kosher certification, three of the fastest-growing market segments in the beauty industry. Although “natural,” carmine’s animal origin clashes head-on with the ethics of the vegan movement and the demand for transparency in “Clean Beauty.” Keeping it in the portfolio can generate public relations crises and alienate an increasingly informed and demanding consumer base.
The question is no longer whether CI 75470 is a good pigment, but whether it is a sustainable ingredient for the future of a global brand. The voluntary exclusion of CI 75470 by leading brands is a clear indicator of where the industry is headed.
The internal conversation in laboratories and marketing departments must change. Continuing to rely on CI 75470 is betting on an ingredient with exceptional performance, but with an increasingly uncertain regulatory and commercial future.
Options to CI 75470
Conagen, a product-focused bioinnovator and manufacturer, has announced the successful construction of a carminic acid extraction pathway compatible with its proprietary fermentation technology. The development of this deep red pigment is environmentally friendly and an alternative to traditional carminic acid extraction methods. Conagen’s de novo production platform enables the production and scale-up of high-quality carminic acid in volumes up to thousands of tons, alleviating supply chain challenges and potential allergenicity issues posed by traditional insect-based sources.
The fermentation process provides a stable supply of high-quality carminic acid, allowing for greater control over the quantity and quality of future production.
Debut, the L’Oréal-backed biotechnology innovator, has introduced a vegan, bioidentical alternative that took four years to develop. Its team of 10 researchers achieved this breakthrough by discovering two new enzymes in the beetle responsible for producing its color. According to founder Joshua Britton, they invested a significant amount in achieving the scientific breakthrough in carmine bioproduction.
As the only biotech company to have achieved the first molecular replica of carmine, their investment to date and future ones will transform beauty and finally eliminate animal-derived carmine.
Debut’s breakthrough in carmine came when the team discovered a new family of enzymes responsible for a key step during the biomanufacturing process that mimics the beetle’s ability to create the pigment. This discovery could also lead to many more breakthroughs and unprecedented applications in the beauty, food, medical, and other industries.
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6 Other Global Suppliers of CI 75470 (Cochineal Carmine) for Cosmetics
- Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – USA / Global
- Givaudan Active Beauty (formerly Industrial Organica) – Switzerland / Global
- Clariant – Switzerland / Global
- ECKART (ALTANA Group) – Germany
- Undersun Biomedtech – China / USA
- Roha Group – India / Global
5 Suppliers in Latin America
- LAF Colors – México
- Colorquímica – Colombia
- Química Anastacio – Brasil
- Grupo Brenntag LATAM – Presencia regional en varios países