Formulating with Postbiotics Challenges Expert Rules. But CLR reveals a formulation secret that challenges common practices: why ‘altering’ the skin is a mistake and how a postbiotic approach can unleash its true regenerative power. Are you ready to learn it?
In any industry, it’s important to stop and listen to a pioneer, because they can reveal secrets that redefine the future of formulation.
CLR, the first company to use probiotic bacteria in cosmetics more than 50 years ago, possesses a depth of knowledge that transcends passing trends.
In a revealing interview with Vanesa Micolucci of Cosmetic Latam, CLR’s Francisco Fernández Palacio unveils a counterintuitive but powerful philosophy and shares crucial technical insights for formulators looking to innovate intelligently and effectively.
* You can activate the subtitles in the language you want or listen to it dubbed in English.
- 00:00 The Origin: 50 Years of Probiotic Secrets.
- 00:38 Deciphering the Future of Formulation.
- 00:52 The Golden Rule: Why “Supporting” Your Skin Changes Everything.
- 04:11Why Postbiotics Don’t Create Formulation Problems.
- 05:20 The Surprise: Fast Effectiveness = Skin Sensation.
- 07:57 The Inner Shield: Protecting the Skin from Within.
- 09:30 Free Formulas and Full Compatibility.
- 10:45 Why Hollywood Makeup Artists Chose CutiGuard.
- 14:53 Neurocosmetics and the Kefir Explosion in Latin America.
The Hidden Principle: Why “Supporting” Your Skin Is the New Way to “Alter” It
Francisco Fernández Palacio launched a powerful concept that resonates like a manifesto for modern formulation: one should not alter the skin, but rather support the microbiome so that the skin learns to defend and regenerate itself.
This idea challenges the traditional approach of direct intervention.
ProRenew Complex Using the active ingredient ProRenew Complex, a postbiotic derived from Lactococcus lactis, as an example, Francisco explained the mechanism.
“What ProRenew Complex does is support the skin in different ways, such as regulating pH or providing it with nutrients, so that the skin itself regenerates the microbiome,” he explained. This indirect approach is, according to him, the key to success. “The skin is much smarter than we are. We don’t have to directly interact with or modify the microbiome, because that can cause many problems.”
For the formulator, this translates into a crucial technical advantage: since ProRenew Complex is made up of bacterial fragments (postbiotics) and not living organisms, it presents no known incompatibilities with preservative systems. The only key consideration is the final pH of the formula, a parameter that CLR clearly specifies for ProRenew Complex to ensure maximum efficacy of the active ingredient.
The Enigma of Perception: When Rapid Efficiency Overwhelms Tactile Sensation
How do you adjust the sensation an active ingredient leaves on your skin? Francisco’s answer was surprising. Instead of focusing on modifying rheology, CLR focuses on something more valuable: visible efficacy in record time.
“Although our active ingredients don’t modify the formula itself, some like AnnonaSense CLR or MultiMoist deliver results after as little as a minute,” he revealed. This speed is crucial for consumer perception. If the end customer doesn’t perceive an improvement in a short time, they will abandon the product. That’s why CLR invests in perception and satisfaction studies with volunteers.
A compelling example is CutiGuard, an active ingredient that reduces cellular senescence. In a “first impressions” study with nearly 200 volunteers not associated with the industry, more than 76% chose the photograph of their skin after a 6-week treatment with CutiGuard, without knowing which image was which. Even professional Hollywood makeup artists, analyzing the images, highlighted the significant improvements in firmness, elasticity, and, uniquely, in the evenness of skin tone.
This demonstrates that the active ingredient’s effectiveness is so visible that it transcends technical analysis and becomes an obvious aesthetic preference.
Beyond the Barrier: The Protective Shield of Postbiotics
The barrier function is essential, and here, postbiotics once again play a starring role. Francisco highlighted the active ingredient Sy-Rei Vida, derived from kefir. Its mechanism is not to create a superficial film, but rather to act at a deeper level. “What Sy-Rei Vida does is reduce the formation of free radicals in our skin, which are formed due to external aggressions such as temperature changes or solar radiation,” he explained.
By preventing these radicals from oxidizing skin proteins, Sy-Rei Vida protects the barrier function from within, maintaining the skin’s integrity against environmental stress.
And for formulators concerned about the delivery of these active ingredients, Francisco has a reassuring message: “In any type of traditional formula, such as a cream, serum, or ampoule, there is no problem.”
He also invited formulators to explore the formula section on the CLR website, a free and open resource that offers guides and suggestions for the application of each active ingredient.
Confirmed Trends: The Latent Demand Now Exploding
What was once a prediction is now a tangible reality. Francisco shared his surprise and satisfaction at seeing the explosive increase in demand for postbiotic active ingredients in Latin America, especially in Brazil, Mexico, Peru, and Chile. “It’s something we already said five or six years ago was a trend that was coming, but now we’re seeing that more and more formulators truly understand the importance of this market,” he commented.
Along with postbiotics, two concepts are gaining unexpected strength:
- Interest in Kefir: The concept behind Sy-Rei Vida resonates strongly in the Latin American market.
- The Era of Neurocosmetics: It’s no longer enough to simply improve the skin; now, the goal is for that improvement to translate into overall well-being. AnnonaSense CLR, a neurocosmetic active ingredient, achieves this by reducing the production of cortisol (the stress hormone), improving sleep quality and overall well-being, something scientifically proven through saliva samples from volunteers.
The interview with Francisco Fernández Palacio wasn’t just a discussion about ingredients; it was a masterclass in a more respectful, intelligent, and ultimately more effective formulation philosophy.
The lesson for the industry is clear: the greatest advances will not come from forcing the skin, but from understanding its language and giving it the precise tools to unleash its own immense potential.
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