The deep delivery system in cosmetic formulation is a crucial issue that formulators should carefully consider.
How does the molecular structure of ingredients affect their penetration capacity?
Currently, more than 40% of new drug candidates entering the drug development process fail due to suboptimal biopharmaceutical properties, such as solubility, permeability, and dosage. These suboptimal biopharmaceutical properties of molecules present several challenges for formulation scientists and require diverse approaches to overcome.
Molecular solubility and permeability can be improved using several approaches, including pH modification and salt formation, cosolvency and surfactant-assisted solubilization, amorphous solid dispersion, nanocrystalline solid dispersion, cocrystals, polymeric micelles, nanonization, liposomes, microemulsions, and self-emulsifying drug or delivery systems. All of these systems have their own limitations that restrict their implementation.
Factors to consider when considering skincare delivery systems include:
Results according to Concentration
Generally, the higher the concentration, the more the skin will absorb it. However, when it comes to some ingredients, a higher percentage doesn’t always mean it’s more effective. Some examples of this are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and niacinamide. Research shows that too high a concentration of any of these ingredients can have adverse effects, such as irritation, redness, and even reduced effectiveness..
Adjusting the pH
The pH of skincare products influences how effectively they penetrate the skin. pH can be adjusted to ensure that skincare formulations work properly and do not damage the skin. Generally, the lower the pH, the deeper the product will penetrate the skin. It’s important to have products with the correct pH.
The most important thing: Solubility
The key to maximizing the effectiveness of almost all skincare product formulas is to consider their solubility. Whether the active ingredients are water- or oil-soluble will determine which vehicle is most appropriate for delivery to deeper levels of the skin.
Benefit according to molecular weight
Molecular weight influences the transdermal delivery of ingredients. In reality, a molecule needs to have a specific weight (500 Daltons) to be able to cross the skin barrier. Products with smaller molecules are able to be absorbed by the skin at deeper levels.
Improving Performance with Deep Management Systems
A delivery system is the way active ingredients are distributed into the skin after application. It takes the key components of the formula and delivers them directly to the areas for which the product is designed.
Delivery systems enhance the performance of a formula by preserving the efficacy and penetration of active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin and modifying the rate at which active ingredients are released and delivered.
Encapsulation
Encapsulation is a process in which an active ingredient is encased in a protective layer to isolate it from its environment. It is often used as a way to restrict the active ingredient’s direct access to the skin during application, control its release, increase penetration potential, or enhance stability.
Extended-Release and Microencapsulation
Extended-release products use a variety of technologies to deliver active ingredients to the skin and release them slowly over time. A major advantage is that this approach can minimize side effects or irritation. One way to achieve the benefits of extended-release is through microencapsulation. Encapsulation is an important aid in stabilizing and preserving active ingredients and allows for a slower, more controlled release.
INdermal
Unlike traditional liposomes used in cosmetics, formulated with soy lecithin and manufactured using basic methods, INdermal offers next-generation nanovesicles, custom-designed for the active ingredient(s) they contain and the cosmetic skin target where they are to be released. Strong and highly stable, they are compatible with any type of formula and very easy to incorporate into the cosmetic manufacturing process.
DRUG DELIVERY Technology Applied to Dermocosmetics
The active ingredients encapsulated in “Deep Delivery” systems are specifically released into the deepest layers of the epidermis to act more intensely and precisely on the structures and cells found there: melanocytes, Langerhans cells, keratinocytes, basal cells, Merkel cells, and so on.
The use of these deep delivery systems transports up to 12 times more active ingredients into the skin than when used freely. Furthermore, the active ingredients encapsulated in these deep delivery systems penetrate the skin quickly and safely, without altering its molecular structure, and are released at that level, preserving their functionality.
A greater amount of 100% functional active ingredients in the precise location exponentially enhances the results of cosmetic formulations and, therefore, the satisfaction of your consumers. Ideal for formulating depigmenting, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, firming, anti-redness, soothing, brightening, and remodeling products.
Intelligent Release System
Specific and optimal design of each system to deliver and release the active ingredient in a controlled manner to the cosmetic target of the skin (stratum corneum, deep epidermis, hair fiber, or hair follicle), maximizing its effectiveness.
This advanced technology in high-efficiency encapsulation systems protects the active ingredient from oxidation, degradation, interactions, and solar radiation, maintaining its properties until it is released into the target dermal structure. With a composition similar to that of the epidermal cell membrane, including naturally occurring, highly bioavailable, pharmaceutical-grade lipids and phospholipids, analogous to those found in the epidermis and hair.
How is the effectiveness of the deep delivery system evaluated?
Ex vivo dermal penetration testing is part of the process for verifying the functionality and suitability of all products, determining the amount of active ingredient released in each cutaneous layer, compared to the natural diffusion of the unencapsulated active ingredient.
Fluorescence confocal microscopy can specifically study each delivery system, using the covalent attachment of a fluorophore to the lipid membrane of the nanovesicles to visually demonstrate the accumulation of said substance in the target structure.
From biomimetic peptides to advanced delivery systems, INdermal is at the forefront of research and sustainability.
Formulators can rely on its expertise to create effective and safe products.
If you’re looking for a collaboration that drives excellence in the cosmetics industry, INdermal is the smart choice.
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