ISO 16128 establishes criteria for classifying ingredients as natural or not, according to more lax criteria than those of existing eco-natural cosmetics standards.
Natural Ingredients: Are They All the Same?
To determine the natural proportion of a product or ingredient, ISO 16128 established four ingredient categories:
Natural ingredient: ingredients derived from nature, including plant, mineral, or animal environments. In cosmetics, a natural ingredient is an ingredient extracted through traditional mechanical action and not chemically transformed. For example, aloe vera plant extract is a natural ingredient.
Ingredients of natural origin: ingredients of natural origin, including naturally derived ingredients. They are chemically and/or biologically processed. To qualify as nature-oriented cosmetics, the final proportion of ingredients must be greater than 50% natural (e.g., glycerin in most cases).
Organic ingredients: ingredients of natural origin cultivated using organic farming methods or from wild harvests, in accordance with national legislation or current international standards (e.g., vegetable oil).
Ingredients of organic origin: ingredients of natural and/or organic origin that are chemically and/or biologically processed (without fossil fragments). For example, organic jojoba ester is an organically sourced ingredient as well as a 100% natural ingredient.
Why is ISO 16128 more flexible than recognized econatural certification standards?
Products that comply with certifications are visibly labeled as such on the packaging, where the end consumer can see them. However, ISO 16128 does not require declarations or labels on products.
Thus, we find products on the market that already list the percentage of natural origin on their packaging. Furthermore, certifications prohibit ingredients that would be legally permitted in cosmetics.
What is the objective of ISO 16128 in the cosmetics industry?
The first part of the standard (ISO 16128-1) was published in February 2016 and defines, among other things, the categories of natural, naturally derived, organic, and organically derived cosmetic ingredients.
The second part of the standard (ISO 16128-2) was published in September 2017. It describes the calculation of natural or organic origin for the above categories.
The degree of natural or organic origin, expressed as an index, can be calculated for individual ingredients or for finished products.
If an ingredient meets the definition of “natural ingredients,” then the “natural origin index” is 1; otherwise, it is 0. The degree of natural origin of finished cosmetic products can also be calculated from the index of individual ingredients.
This value ranges from 0 to 100% and can be calculated with or without the water content in the formulation.
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