Vitamin D deficiency is a challenge inherent in today’s world. Vitamin D skin care is possible, thanks to MultiMoist CLR™ from CLR BERLIN.
INCI: Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Water
The involvement of vitamin D in the pathogenesis of various dermatological diseases is no exception and has been the subject of numerous investigations in recent years. Vitamin D deficiency can occur when habitual intake is below recommended levels or exposure to sunlight is limited. This results in the kidneys being unable to convert 25(OH)D into its active form, or inadequate absorption of vitamin D from the digestive tract.
Personal variations represent another group of influential factors affecting vitamin D production in the skin, including age. Older people are known to have thinner skin and, consequently, are less able to synthesize vitamin D. It is also worth noting that skin type determines a person’s efficiency in vitamin D production.
Lifestyles and consumer behavior are constantly evolving and changing, with important outcomes for skin and skin care. Urbanization and the recent COVID-19 pandemic have led to a significant increase in the number of people working from home, spending more time indoors.
In addition, consumers are using sunscreen products with higher SPF than a few decades ago. In short, on average, our skin is increasingly exposed to influences that promote dry skin and increasingly less exposed to sunlight.
The prevalence of vitamin D deficiency is now identified as a major global health issue. Vitamin D is important for many biological processes in our bodies, including our skin.
We need vitamin D for good skin quality and hydration. Can skincare products help? Yes, but how?
How can Vitamin D help with skin care?
One of the key characteristics of vitamin D for the skin is that it is an important initiator of filaggrin production. This is the most important raw material for the production of NMF and for giving the skin its ability to maintain hydration. In more detail, the vitamin D receptor (VDR) is essential for epidermal differentiation. The VDR is a nuclear receptor to which vitamin D binds to trigger its biological effects. Increased VDR expression leads to improved epidermal differentiation and, therefore, to more hydrated skin.
What active ingredient helps in activating the VDR?
With the global problem of vitamin D deficiency in mind, increasing the production and activation of the vitamin D receptor increases the likelihood of vitamin D producing its beneficial effects on the skin. CLR Berlin developed MultiMoist CLR™ (INCI: Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Water). In vitro and in vivo studies were conducted with MultiMoist CLR™ to test its beneficial effects on vitamin D receptor production and activation, and its properties as a moisturizing active ingredient.
In vitro, Influence on VDR expression and activation
We evaluated whether MultiMoist CLR™ could potentiate vitamin D-induced effects on VDR expression and activation. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated for 72 hours with and without the presence of seocalcitol (an analogue of calcitriol, the biologically active form of vitamin D) and MultiMoist CLR™.
The results obtained for VDR expression are presented in Figure 1. VDR expression without the presence of seocalcitol or MultiMoist CLR™ is set to 100%. The corresponding results relevant to VDR activation (VDR-SerP) are presented in Figure 2.
Y-axis: VDR production (%)
Eje Y: Activación del VDR (%)
Treatment with MultiMoist CLR™ produced pronounced results compared to treatment with seocalcitol alone. The addition of MultiMoist CLR™ to seocalcitol clearly demonstrated the enhancing effects of MultiMoist CLR™. This leads to the conclusion that MultiMoist CLR™ can amplify the effects of vitamin D.
Approaches and in vivo results
Demonstrating the true moisturizing effects of a cosmetic is a complex task. Most measurement techniques that quantify skin hydration levels are imperfect. This does not mean they are useless, but in order to draw conclusions from the results obtained with these techniques, a combination of them is necessary. Furthermore, the level of “hydration” measured with these techniques does not necessarily correlate with the consumer’s perception of hydrated versus dry skin.
Dry skin feels rough and appears dull to the consumer. Therefore, these parameters must also be quantified. Finally, a consumer study must be conducted to validate the results obtained with instrumental methods.
In studies conducted by CLR, they first used skin capacitance as a parameter of skin hydration. Two types of corneometers were used (CM825 and MPA 5 CPU, Courage & Khazaka electronics).
Additionally, MoistureMap technology was used. This is a “capacitance imaging” technology that provides graphical information about the distribution of hydration near the surface over a larger area of skin.
A moisture accumulation test (MAT) was subsequently performed using a Novameter DPM 9003 (NOVA Technology Corp). MAT provides information about the amount of moisture the SC can accumulate over a given time. It is well described in the literature that decreasing NMF content (i.e., a lower capacity to bind water) correlates with lower water accumulation during MAT.
While the above technologies only provide information about “water in the stratum corneum,” two other technologies were used to address the more subjective aspects of skin hydration. Squametry (“skin dryness assessment”) was performed. By peeling the tape off the skin surface, the loosely adhered portion of the SC sticks to the adhesive. The scales can be automatically measured and counted to provide a measure of the degree of skin dryness, correlating with the skin’s appearance.
Dry skin is perceived as rough. Skin roughness was assessed using a high-resolution Primos 5.7 (GFMesstechnik). With this optical technology, the precise three-dimensional topography of the skin can be reliably determined.
A consumer study was also conducted, and the combined results of all in vivo studies were clear. Compared to the corresponding placebo formulation, MultiMoist CLR™, at a 3% application level, showed clear moisturizing properties in both normal and dry skin. Single applications of MultiMoist CLR™ showed remarkably rapid moisturizing properties and clearly long-lasting effects. Long-term studies, over 3 weeks, also showed clear and relevant effects.
In these long-term studies, a comparison was made not only with a placebo formulation, but with the same formulation containing a reference moisturizing active ingredient. MultiMoist CLR™ was also clearly shown to be superior to this ingredient. The consumer study confirmed the instrumental results. Figure 3 shows examples of results, obtained with MoistureMap technology, 2 hours after application of the test products.
Overall, MultiMoist CLR™ proved to be a strong, fast-acting, and long-lasting moisturizer across all measured and determined parameters.
MultiMoist CLR™ is capable of inducing the production and activation of VDR. It may also enhance the effect of vitamin D. Using an intelligent combination of in vivo methodologies, MultiMoist CLR™ demonstrated significant and relevant moisturizing properties, both short- and long-term. It was even shown to outperform a reference moisturizing active ingredient, which is widely used in the cosmetics industry.
Some examples of applications and formulations that can be made with MultiMoist CLR™ include:
- 3-in-1 Eyelash and Brow Treatment
- 5-in-1 Overnight Hair Mask
- All-in-One Serum
- Anti-Aging Hair Tonic
- Anti-Static Hair Spray
- Unique DIY Face Mask
- Back to Balance Eye Serum
- Sulfate-Free Balancing Hand and Body Wash
- Bi-Phase Hair Conditioner
- Sulfate-Free Biome-Friendly Cleansing Bar
- Biome-Friendly Face and Scalp Serum
- Bubble Cleansing Mask
- Come As You Are All-in-One Barrier Balm
- Come As You Are All-in-One Clay Mask
Are you interested in receiving a sample of these ingredients for your formulations?
Complete the following form and the distributor in your country will contact you.
¿Deseas obtener una muestra de MultiMoist CLR™? Completa el siguiente formulario aquí y un representante del país donde te encuentras te contactara.
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